22 August 2009

Anuradhapura - Once a glorious kingdom, now a sacred city

Today's post will be dedicated to Sri Maha Bodhi in Anuradhapura.. that we visited on 1st of August 2009, after returning from Tantirimale.

Most Buddhist devotees who visit Anuradhapura usually cover all Atamasthana (literally 8 sites) which have great religious importance to us. We didn't have time to visit all 8 sites, but we did visit two of them - Sri Maha Bodhi and Ruwanweli Stupa.

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Sri Maha Bodhi
One of the most sacred objects for Buddhists in Lanka is this Bodhi tree, a gift from India brought by Arhant Sangamitta Thero - the daughter of Emperor Ashoka in 3rd century BC. This sacred tree was once a sapling of the very Bodhi tree at Bodh Gaya which sheltered Bodhisatva Siddartha Gauthama to attain enlightenment and become Lord Gauthama Buddha.

This sacred tree in Anuradhapura is said to be one of the oldest trees in the world.. and as Wiki says, it is the oldest human planted tree in the world with a recorded date.

If I remember right, along with Sangamitta Thero, a large group of artisans arrived from India to Lanka bringing a wealth of knowledge and skills on themes like arts and crafts, dancing, music and even architecture, agriculture among others. These ancient sites in Anuradhapura as well as in Polonnaruwa and other cities reveal traces of these wonderful artistry, preserved for centuries.

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Here's a few snaps I captured at Sri Maha Bodhi premises.

* Click on each photo to expand them



Pic 1: The ornate gateway at the first entrance
Pic 2: A glimpse of Sri Maha Bodhi tree, surrounded by a protective wall. In the center is the stairway and on top of it is the second entranceway.

PS: I was tweaking the white balance *setting of my cam* here too, so some pics have different color schemes!



Pic 1: 'Mura gala' or guardstone straddling the stairway *there's 2 for each stairway*
Pic 2: 'Sandakada Pahana' or Moonstone at the foot of this stairway. *I had another in Lankan Artistry post*
Pic 3: A portion of the Korawakgala, a stone railing, straddling the very stairway. While it adds a simplistic yet charming beauty it also supports the weak, the children and the aged to climb up the stairway while holding it.



And here's the very stairway *as seen from above*



Pic 1: The sacred Bodhi tree, surrounded by two golden railings and flanked by a few Buddhist Flags. Some of the boughs on the right side rest upon huge supporters.. and they are said to be oldest boughs remaining since the 3rd century BC.
Pic 2: Close up of these oldest boughs
Pic 3: Sacred Bodhi tree *as seen from the bigger shrine hall below*



Pic 1: Portion of the second entranceway which houses a small shrine where devotees can offer flowers.
Pic 2: Close up of the deep yellow sculpture. It looks a bit modern and I think this is a guarding deity.



Saw a group of traditional drummers in the 'Maluwa' or grounds, on the other side of the first entrance, playing their drums as a 'shabda puja' (a percussive offering) to the sacred Bodhi tree.

See the tiny drummer out there? He might be around 6 - 8 years. Well this lil one started dancing around while playing his thammettama (a traditional twin drum), after seeing me snapping pics of them! =D



The 'Lova Maha Paya' or the Great Brazen Palace of 2nd century BC, sitting between Sri Maha Bodhi and Ruwanweli Stupa. In the ancient times it rose about 9 floors and accommodated thousands of monks. Today only these stone pillars of the ground floor remain in tact.

9 comments:

  1. Anonymous8/23/2009

    Harumi.. I'v never been to Anuradhapura... but always wished I could go... can't wait for our next holiday back in SL ( its not just about being a religious place, i think its the very pinnacle of sri lankan history). I have such a long list of places to visit now. In the mean time your pictures are a great substitute... Thanks Harumi :)

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  2. I really love the Bodhi site... so vast and peaceful... not to mention the birdies living on the Bo trees... an eco-system of it's own... :)

    I do have some reservations about them not allowing devotees to visit the top most level though... that goes against the fundamentals of Buddhism IMHO... :|

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  3. @ MTC: Ya, in these historical cities there's so much to see apart from religious sites, like lakes, irrigation systems, ruins, ancient arts and crafts, dry zone fauna and flora, lifestyle and much more.

    That's true.. cuz Anuradhapura was our very first kingdom. Oh ya.. hehe.. you'll need a long holiday to cover all these places. =D Thanks a lot and you're most welcome! ^__^

    @ Chavie: Really? oh ya.. the premises here is quite peaceful and very cooling too compared to the scorching heat outside. oh I only noticed the pigeons and monkeys but can't recall any other type of birdies. I was too busy snapping pics ne. =D

    Um.. I know what you mean.. but I think they must have done so due to security reasons and other issues. I do remember climbing up that tiny stairway and worshiping the sacred Bodhi tree up close, once.. that was about a decade ago during a religious festival. It is indeed a bliss just to be near this Bodhi tree.

    You know people still worship like that. But you need to get permission beforehand from the chief priest and be there before dawn.

    Anyway do read this too.. which justifies the tight security measures. The other reason is, despite their religion there are people who doesn't know proper etiquette when they're within a religious premises. Some might even casually visit there after consuming meat or alcohol. *e.g. Adam's peak is already facing that issue* So what I feel is there has to be some amount of filtering and restrictions, to protect this sacred site for future generations.

    Thanks a lot for sharing your thoughts and views!

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  4. I have been to Anuradhapura many a times but the best experience was some years ago when I went there around 10pm. It was quite different and very inspiring.

    I do not know whether they still allow it.

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  5. Thanks for your comments K. Really? that's great. I know.. I've visited there many times during evenings and nights too, since we were living in Anuradhapura for a short time. Our house *quarters* wasn't that far from these sites either so we were lucky to visit there more often.

    You mean visiting there after 8pm? Mmm.. not sure about it.

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  6. Yep that day they allowed entrance till 10pm.

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  7. Really? I asked mom and she says they might be allowing, cuz you know they're still having the 24/7 x 365 days pirith sermon still going on *think on TV they said it was extended till next January or something*

    Even on the day we visited I saw a few priests chanting pirith in this special pirith kotuwa.. and you won't believe a few meters away from it was a big sheltered scaffolding where lots of devotees were taking an evening nap! =D I think they're also joining the pirith sermon all night long.

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  8. Very Informative post.I liked your photo wise description.

    Thanks for sharing!

    Regards,
    Sharodindu
    CLICK!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hello! and welcome to my blog Sharodindu!

    And thanks a lot for your compliments too. I just dropped by Click! *your blog* and skimmed through few posts, and it sure looks very interesting. Hope to check it out leisurely again.

    You're welcome. ^__^

    ReplyDelete

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